
Leaving
record
speed along Highway N1, despite the tall, wind-tossed roadside grass
that obscured our vision. In one heart-stopping moment, we narrowly
missed a head-on collision with a filled-to-the-brim mini-bus!
In a matter-of-fact fashion, Masamba explained that many people die
in accidents on this highway. Gulp! The carcasses of two
mini-buses and an old, donated American school bus caused me a
shiver or two as we sped toward
I
was, therefore, relieved when we disembarked at Dabola’s Tinkisso
Hotel, a mustardy one-story wood building near the city’s center.
Ms. Simbra, the energetic, full-figured thirty-something hotel
manager, welcomed us. She was a delight; her words and laughter were
punctuated by occasional chews on the bamboo shoot protruding from
her mouth. Equally delightful was the banana bread and tea she’d
prepared in the reception office. I received the usual necessities—a
receipt for my lodging fee, towel, wash cloth, bar of soap, and room
key—before she gave us a tour. In many ways, the 15-room hotel
reminded me of a large American bed and breakfast. While my room,
one of the main guest rooms positioned near the dining room, had its
own shower and flush toilets, many rooms shared toilets. Hot water
was available morning and evening: 7 to 8 A.M. and 8 to 9 P.M.
Although the hotel was well-maintained, the rainy season added its
touch with the curling, mustard wall paint.
Collecting my luggage was a chore made easy by
When Masamba joined us, he
officially introduced me to my new friend Kpakelah. Stumbling
through his name, I asked if I could simply call him Brett.
Masamba’s quick translation had both Guineans laughing uproariously
before Kpakelah/Brett nodded an emphatic yes.
