Destination Guinea - Part 6
Part 6: Ready to Hit the Road ... or Plateau!
The American Embassy in
Conakry
is an old British colonial building near the heart of the business
center. In the courtyard, an Army colonel and sergeant emerged from
the guard shack. When they learned I was American, they asked how
their beloved Bengals and Cowboys were faring. Masamba tried to
update them on the Falcons; they weren’t interested. I wished their
teams well (except when they played the Packers or Vikings) and
entered the embassy.
Inside, I placed my shoes, watch, and other belongings in a box to
be kept in a vault until my departure; my passport and security
clearance card stayed with me so I could claim my my things. I
completed the standard visitor’s form (purpose of visit, length of
stay, local address and contact person) and, within ten minutes, I
was out of there with a “have a good stay, sir.” Returning to the
Camayenne, taciturn Jamila wordlessly calculated the number of
G-francs I’d need for lodging, meals, and spending money. As before,
she held my hundred-dollar bills to the light before giving me my Guinea
currency.
The next morning with Ekwueme behind the wheel, Masamba and I headed
out of Conakry. The men,
conversing in French, discussed the odds of being involved in an
accident; high speeds, poor visibility around sharp curves, narrow
highways, and sleepy drivers topped the list of hazards. Seemingly
endless savannah stretched alongside as we traversed the Fouta
Djallon plateau on our way to Kindia
City, where we were to deliver a report
to Masamba’s colleague at the Ministry of Agriculture. Distant
forested hills and mountains created a backdrop for scattered family
huts. Beef cattle, short ropes attached to their horns, clustered
with herders near a river while others grazed or rested. Many of
these farmers moved to higher ground during the rainy season. My
hopes of seeing Baobab trees, producers of tasty Monkey Bread fruit,
plummeted. Masamba said he knew of these trees in
Mali
and Senegal and,
possibly, eastern
Guinea
but said none grew in this area.
As we neared each small village foot traffic increased as people,
seemingly oblivious to the cars and trucks and occasionally stopping
to relieve themselves on the roadside, followed age-old paths that
angled across the open land. Masamba’s grumble that these folks
didn’t have the “common sense to step aside when trucks approached”
reminded me that Masamba and Ekwueme were, like me, tired and
anxious to reach
Kindia
City.
by Everil Quist, International Agri-business Consultant
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