
The conclusion...
My return to Chisinau was bittersweet, for it was hard for me to
juxtapose the poverty and despair I had seen in Hrincesti village
with Chisinau, a teeming metropolis of well over a half million
people. While socialism had left a mere hull of farming villages
such as Hrincesti, history had been more kind to this urban setting.
Determined to further my understanding of this developing economy, I
explored the city, making good use of a map of Chisinau that led me
to the city’s major points of interest. What a beautiful, graceful,
old city! Several verdant parks were familiar haunts of University
students. Benches and paths were filled with young people enjoying
each other and hopes of spring in the chilly March air. How
appropriate this seemed, since the word Chisinau is Russian
for “new spring.”
Older government buildings, imposing with their heavy Russian
facades, shared space with only a handful of apartment buildings.
Signs of newer construction were totally absent. Very few cars
competed with crowded buses and taxis that hustled from place to
place. I couldn’t place why huge establishments such as hotels,
commercial buildings, and factories looked odd to me until I
realized that all lacked parking lots. Why invest space in parking
lots when few citizens have cars?
I searched out the Presidential Building as well as the busy,
block-long Flower Market, a beehive of merchants selling fresh
flowers imported from
Near the city limits was a large cemetery. Fresh flowers graced many
gravesites. Conspicuously absent, however, were crosses and other
Christian symbols as well as any mentions of God or Heaven, a
chilling reminder of the Soviet repression of every facet of human
existence during the bloc years. Not unlike many American
cemeteries, this graveyard had its share of people-worship, with the
most prominent and wealthiest of the dearly departed memorialized by
the largest and most ornate statues and headstones.
In what would become a reassuring mixture of the new with the
familiar, I invited Anna to join me for worship one Sund
ay
morning at the Ciuflea Eastern Orthodox Church
. Its golden domes towered above the church with its navy paint and
white-trimmed windows and doors. What an awesome sight it was! Anna
explained that churches such as Ciuflea had served as military
depots during the Soviet era. (How repugnant was that thought!)
I added a few coins to hands of the women who begged at the
courtyard gate before washing my hands at the chain hoist well as
was the custom for anyone entering the church. In the vestibule I
placed a candle in a sand box next to the other lighted candles as I
offered a prayer for the safety, health, and well-being of family
and friends—both those in America and those newly made in Moldova.
How comforted I felt at the realization that, despite the difference
in dogma and setting, the worship service was surprisingly similar
to those I attended in my Lutheran church in Wisconsin: the young,
pink-cheeked acolyte lighting candles; the heavyset, bearded priest
in furry cleric’s hat with Bible in hand and ornate cross around his
neck; the sermon delivered from a pulpit to a congregation who stood
since the church lacked pews, the sacrament of Holy Communion, and
the choir (who were allowed to sit) leading the congregation in
hymns sung in Romanian, some of them to tunes which I’d known since
childhood. Anna translated the sermon as it was delivered, which
caused some in attendance to frown since they thought we were
disrespectfully chatting and ignoring the cleric.
Yet, the obvious differences between
by Everil Quist, International Agri-business Consultant
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